Alexander McQueen Women’s Collection for Autumn/Winter 2015 represents “the spirit of the rose”, as Sarah Burton likes to put it. Why rose you ask? Roses can grow, flower and seed for many years. They grow and bloom over the spring and summer and die in the fall and winter. This cycle repeats every year. Metaphorically speaking, this collection is like a rose that starts with a tight bud, then opens into a beautiful bloom and, in the end, it collapses, again, in beautiful shades.
Burton’s collection followed the same path as the rose does every year: structure to dissolution. This is what nature does. “I was thinking about the female form, and some pictures David Sims took of roses,” she said.
Let’s start with the models. When you take a look at them you can see the resemblace with Edward Scissorhands. Even the make-up has found some inspiration in the movie: the porcelain skin and dark lips. And if you add a black outfit to these, then you’ve just pulled a total Edward Scissorhands look.
The bud was all about black leather coats, pantsuits, fur collars in pale pink and other red accents, and fine leather boots, resulting in ready-to-wear complex daywear items. Then came some airy knitted dresses with high collars. A little bit of sheer and lace accents and long gloves were also used. I found really interesting the pale pink outfits.
The sumptuous bloom
The sumptuous bloom was a secquence of tiny (at firts) chiffon ruffles dresses, which also had some lace accents underneath. They seemed to be evoking a Victorian age kind of look. Then came a couple of dresses with huge whorls, a picture of the rose in its full bloom period. Just wonderful!
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The “fading away” outfits brought into the center of attention the touch of sheer. All these dresses in white, black and red share something in common: sheer. It’s a known fact that it’s a major trend this year and Burton isn’t the only one taking advantage of it and doing a great job.
As the rose fades away and collapses, so does the Alexander McQueen collection, ending with some remarkable and beautiful gowns or “skeleton dresses”. This was the beauty of imperfection.
The designer knows how to get in touch with nature and how to translate that into clothing items and accessories. “There’s such beauty in all stages of the life of a rose. So there’s this sense of a woman, who becomes slightly unraveled as she goes along and her clothing starts peeling away. . . .”
“The frayed nature of reality and the beauty of imperfection”
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